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Liz DeSousa / Byrdie
Shopping for skincare can be daunting for anyone, but it's particularly challenging for those with sensitive skin. Skincare ingredients others swear by can easily lead to irritation; products that give your friends clear, radiant complexions can leave yours itchy and uncomfortable.
One thing that can make skincare navigation easier for those with sensitive skin is knowing what not to use. To figure out just that, we went to the experts. Read on to find out what ingredients to avoid if you have sensitive skin, straight from board-certified dermatologists.
What Is Sensitive Skin?
"Sensitive skin is an umbrella term for skin types that are more reactive and vulnerable to outside irritants from the environment, skincare products, diet, and lifestyle choices," explains board-certified dermatologist Deanne Mraz, MD. "Sensitive skin is more prone to atopic dermatitis and other skin conditions and is skin that has temporarily become sensitive and shows signs of irritation due to a compromised skin barrier. When you know you have sensitive skin... the focus [should be] on repairing the skin, soothing the irritation, and avoiding whatever triggers the reaction in the future."
It's important to note that there is a difference between sensitive and sensitized skin. "Sensitized skin is a term used to describe the acute state of irritated or inflamed skin," notes board-certified dermatologist Blair Murphy-Rose, MD. "Often, sensitive skin becomes sensitized. But even those without sensitive skin can develop sensitized skin as a response to certain external factors like environmental stressors, harsh products, over-exfoliation, or abrasive treatments."
Ingredients to Avoid
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Fragrances
Across the board, the derms agree: Fragrances are a no-no for sensitive skin. "Fragrances, which can heighten the experience of a skincare product, are common culprits of skin irritation, including allergic contact dermatitis," says board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD. "If you have sensitive skin, opt for fragrance-free and unscented products. Note that unscented products may not have a noticeable odor, but may contain ingredients that mask odors."
Byrdie Tip
Along with fragrances, you'll want to steer clear of dyes. Though they "can add an element of novelty to skincare products, [they] are also common causes of skin irritation," explains Camp. "Look for dye-free products if you have sensitive skin."
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Alcohol
This one won't come as a surprise, but what perhaps is surprising is how many skincare products contain alcohol. While some alcohols in skincare can be beneficial—such as fatty alcohols deriving from coconut or palm oil to nourish the skin—more often than not, the alcohols present in skincare are doing the opposite.
"These are usually solvents, often used in toners and astringents, and help provide a quick-drying effect and help other ingredients penetrate the skin," says board-certified dermatologist Divya Shokeen, MD. "The alcohol can strip the skin of its natural oils and disrupt its protective barrier, leading to dryness and irritation. Instead, consider using hydrating toners with ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid."
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Sulfates
You'll often find sulfates in cleansers to create the foam effect. While this may feel satisfying (and look aesthetic), this ingredient often does more harm than good. "Sulfates are usually effective in removing dirt and oil from the skin," explains Shokeen. "However, for those with sensitive skin, sulfates can be overly harsh, causing dryness and irritation and disrupting the skin's natural barrier."
How can you identify sulfates in your skincare? Licensed esthetician Patricia Pol notes the two most common you'll see in an ingredient list are sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. However, she adds, "There are milder surfactants such as sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium lauryl sulfoacetate that are not only gentle, [but] also highly biologically degradable." Still, Shokeen recommends opting for "gentle, sulfate-free cleansers with mild surfactants like Cocamidopropyl betaine."
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Essential Oils
Essential oils can be calming in many instances, but on the skin is not one of them. "[Essential oils such as] tea tree oil and lavender oil are natural oils extracted from plants, often used for their aromatic properties or skin benefits," Shokeen shares. "Though they claim to provide anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits, most of the time, the purified form can be potent and trigger irritation, allergic reactions, or exacerbate sensitivity in some individuals. I would do patch testing before using any of these... natural is not always better."
Mraz seconds this, adding that essential oils may be the source of fragrance in your skincare and can be "a common trigger of irritation".
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Retinols and Retinoids
While retinol and retinoids can most certainly work in your skin's favor (debatably more so than any other irritant on this list) it's important to understand how to use them properly to ensure positive results without upsetting your skin. "Retinols and retinoids, which are anti-aging ingredients, are classic examples of skincare ingredients that can [irritate]," explains Camp. "Redness, flaking, and stinging associated with the use of retinols and retinoids is called retinoid dermatitis and represents a form of irritant contact dermatitis."
While many people eventually find a retinol or retinoid routine that works for them, others don't. "Despite the gradual and careful use of retinol and retinoids, some people are unable to use them consistently enough to be effective because of the irritation they cause," Camp continues. "As an alternative, consider products that contain bakuchiol, which is a plant-based ingredient that is better tolerated than retinol and thought to have similar anti-aging effects."
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Benzoyl Peroxide
If you have acne-prone skin, benzoyl peroxide may be your best friend. And like many of the ingredients on this list, when used appropriately, it can work magic. That said, the experts say to use it cautiously to avoid any irritations. "Many times, sensitive and sensitized skin tends to have blemishes due to constant reactions," explains Pol. "Utilizing benzoyl peroxide could irritate the skin even further." If you react poorly to benzoyl peroxide, "Zinc-based products can help reduce irritation [and] with breakouts," she adds.
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AHAs and BHAs
AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) are exfoliants, which should tell you off the jump to proceed with caution. We've come a long way from using apricot and walnut scrubs, but it's still important to be aware of the exfoliants you're working with and how they interact with the rest of your skincare routine (and with your skin itself).
"AHAs and BHAs are chemical exfoliants that dissolve the glue that holds dead cells together, promoting cellular turnover," explains Pol. "They can cause irritation, redness, and sensitivity, and that's why they are not recommended for sensitive and sensitized skin. Instead, you can try enzyme exfoliants such as pumpkin and pineapple or gentle scrubs made with jojoba beads or rice powder."
Murphy-Rose adds that polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) like gluconolactone are gentle, hydrating alternatives.
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Parabens
Parabens extend the shelf life of your favorite products and help prevent any bacteria or mold growth. But, unsurprisingly, an ingredient that can do these things is not always the most skin-friendly. "If you are prone to atopic dermatitis or manage an associated condition like eczema, you might find parabens irritating," says Mraz. "Furthermore, parabens are classified as endocrine disruptors, mimicking estrogen and influencing the hormonal balance in the body."
She recommends seeking products labeled paraben-free—especially lotions, cosmetics, and other products that sit on the skin—and keeping an eye out for "common ones like methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, and benzylparaben so you can avoid them."
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