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@JAMEALYNEE / Design by Zackary Angeline
Curly hair comes with its own set of concerns and challenges–from managing frizz to curl definition and styling. Achieving desired results is dependent on a variety of factors such as texture, curl pattern and even product application. A good haircut is central to enhancing your curls, making them manageable on the daily and bringing out the best of your hair texture. There is no one size fits all when it comes to curls. “It’s really important to seek a professional who has had the proper training to really understand curls and coils,” Ashley Brown, a curly hair expert, Sam Villa Ambassador and Mizani Artist & Texpert, tells Byrdie. They will understand how the natural occurring shape of how your hair grows and will tailor the cut to compliment your face shape, your personal style and how you like to style your curls. Although the specifics of cutting curly hair varies from person to person, there are some details to keep in mind when seeking a new cut. Keep reading for some advice on how to prepare your curls prior to cutting them, shrinkage, styling and more.
01 of 07
Put Down the Shampoo
The biggest mistake people make when cutting curly hair is starting the service with a nice rough shampoo, which frizzes or fluffs up curls. Using conditioner-like shampoo is a better option. Dirt and oil will adhere to the conditioner and when rinsed out, will leave your hair feeling clean without the glassy feeling that shampoo can leave behind. In most cases, those with curly hair should try not to use shampoo more than once a week. You will notice a significant difference in your curls once you start spacing out washes.
Is it better to cut curly hair wet or dry?
It is best to cut curly hair when it is fully dry and in its natural state, Brown recommends. This will allow for a better account of your curls' natural shrinkage, as well as a better assessment of your texture’s unique challenges.
02 of 07
Layers Are a Curl's Best Friend
A lot of individuals with curly hair don't have their hair very layered. This is often because they've had a haircut that did not correspond to their needs or out of concern that removing weight will leave their hair puffy. In reality, it is quite the opposite. Not removing enough weight will leave you with the infamous triangle haircut. Curly hair needs layers to move. Start by cutting vertical layers before cutting individual curls for added movement. This technique has for effect of breaking up the layering as to avoid hard lines in your hair.
What is the best way to cut curly hair?
Brown points to the Mizani Aircut method as particularly helpful for individuals with naturally curly or coily hair. “This has been the most groundbreaking method to approaching cutting curls and coils to date,” she says. This cutting technique was created by celebrity hairstylist Tippi Shorter to target the unique concerns of those with textured hair. It is tailored to each individual depending on their curl pattern, face shape and overall desired results.
03 of 07
Don't Shred the Ends
Nothing disrupts curly hair more than too much texturizing. Try to avoid stylists who extensively use thinning shears. Curly hair needs weight removed from its bulk. However, weight should never be removed from the ends. Heavy ends on curly hair is needed to allow curls to take shape. Over-texturizing curly hair will disturb your curl pattern and may result in frizz.
04 of 07
Mind the Length
When cutting curly hair, it is important to remember that hair length will shrink more than expected. Clients with curly hair tend to wait longer in between cuts, meaning their ends often require more cutting than they're willing to part with. Know how much length you want to remove and always remember that less is more. Some clients gain as much as five inches in length when their hair is wet. It can be easy to get carried away if you're not careful.
05 of 07
Re-Wet Before Styling
Curly hair tends to frizz when the curl pattern is disturbed. Make sure curls are shaped prior to cutting. The easiest way to reshape curls is by adding water to the hair. If you have fine hair, spray it after cutting it but before you style the curls.
Byrdie
Use only your fingers when styling curly hair. Combing curls may lead to breakage and split ends.
06 of 07
Product Application
You know how curly hair looks great when wet and then becomes frizzy once dry? The reason why this happens is because water no longer acts as an adhesive once it evaporates. It then causes hair to separate and frizz. Using conditioner will help define curls and leave them frizz-free once the hair has dried. If you have fine hair, you may achieve better results by substituting conditioner for a leave-in formula.
07 of 07
Don't Touch Your Curls Until Dry
After applying conditioner and leave-in products like gel or mousse, dry your hair using a diffuser or let it air-dry. The way to dry curly hair without frizz is to keep your hand off it until it is almost entirely dry. Try not to scoop the hair in a diffuser or scrunch it with your hands when it is wet. Once the hair is 80% dry, shake it out to release the curls and give them volume.
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